Товарищи минизетчики, гляньте что нашел на одном из иностранных форумов:
I've been working to get my MR02 to drift for almost a year now, and now I've gotten far enough that I think I can publish my findings and help someone else out. I realize most MR01/015/02 owners would rather race than drift, but hey, there's gotta be someone out there who shares my interests.
I changed my own setup for the slippery hardwood, will be trying it out and making any adjustments as necessary:
- Plastic drift tires, sanded/textured with rough-grit sandpaper
- Hard springs, 1.2mm preload
- 2* camber knuckles
- Stock 0* toe tierod
- 55* slicks
- Ball differential, 43t spur, factory tension
- 39t handwound motor in ball-bearing can, 6t pinion
- FRP hard t-plate, hard spring
- Oil damper, 200wt oil, no spring
Still experimenting with many things; I used to use lots of weight transfer, but now it seems like less is better. Thus, the current setup. It's pretty consistent now, I can usually point the car where it wants to go. Even zero-countersteer drifts are possible: not for show, but for throttle control practice.
A suitable baseline for most would be as follows:
- Plastic tires
- Standard soft springs
- 0* camber
- 0* toe
- 50-60* slicks
- Ball differential
- Stock FET motor
- Medium h/t-plate
- Oil damper
In general, some things can be said about RWD drift setups.
- The rear tires should have more grip than the fronts. It's just more consistent that way, the rear will come back more easily when you let off the throttle.
- Ball diff tightness has a significant bearing on understeer/oversteer characteristics, especially entry understeer/oversteer. The tighter the diff the more understeer. If the rear tires are significantly softer than the fronts and the diff is too tight, the car will never break rear traction.
- The rear longitudinal (up-down) damping should be adjusted to your likes, but roll (side-side) damping should be kept to a minimum, or none at all.
- The roll stiffness of the rear should be high. Corner entry has to be 100% consistent, so keeping roll resistance high ensures that the tail comes out at entry.
- An MM car will be easier to turn into the corner, but more difficult to hold the drift. An RM is just the opposite, and may require softer front tires and harder rears than an MM. Overall rear stiffness of an RM must be harder than an MM, to account for the weight distribution and polar moment of inertia.
Some of these points may be more obvious than others, but in general, that's what I think a RWD 1/28 needs in order to drift successfully. Hope it helps.
У кого есть стафф типа шарикового дифа и масляного амора попробуйте если нетрудно, а то я сам этим необладаю